Less interesting moments from Paris Fashion Week 2025: Chanel got the season wrong
At the turn of September and October, Paris hosted one of the most prestigious world events - Paris Fashion Week! And there was a lot at stake. Eight fashion houses presented their first collections, but a new energy was also felt among fashion staples. Dior and Chanel have new artistic directors and it seems they want to transform the brand from the ground up. But will they be successful?
Móda proti proudu
Názor PROTI PROUDU: Denisa Zajíčková
Colors, flowers, stripes, ruffles, and long skirts. This and much more was showcased at Paris Fashion Week, which every fashion enthusiast looks forward to every year. Stripes are a staple on the Parisian catwalks, appearing in different forms every season. This time, designers again combined various types of stripes within one model, demonstrating that this is a timeless classic. So if you don't have at least one striped shirt in your closet that goes with everything, run to the store! But this is far from the only inspiration Paris has given us this year.
This time, the most attention was concentrated on rested on Matthieu Blazy from the fashion house Chanel, who debuted at Paris Fashion Week as the new artistic director. His show, inspired by space motifs, was perceived for the legendary brand as a significant step forward. At first glance, it is clear that he wants to offer something new to new customers. But as if he was trying too hard.
Chanel divided people into two camps
Some Chanel models looked like the management had "stolen" them from the autumn collection. Although we really have autumn now, the collection for next spring and summer was being presented in Paris in recent days. There were too many details, and although some talked about the classic coming back to life, others felt that the brand was drowning in an excess of details. Fashion critics also did not ignore the significant layering, including at first glance heavy materials. As if the artistic director was trying to get everything he came up with on the catwalk.
The question is where the brand will head now. And whether the new management will leave customers what they are used to from them, or if they will take an entirely new direction. This could mean losing their earlier customers. This time, it was clear that the new artistic director wants to make a good impression and is pushing the envelope, as they say in art circles. There is no doubt that he has great talent and still has a lot to offer. Whether he finds his clientele will yet be revealed. This Chanel fashion show may not have been one of the best, but it certainly did not disappoint.
Perfect elegance
But those who have not lost a bit of their elegance are the brand Louis Vuitton. They have prepared wonderful pieces that will find their place in the wardrobe even of those who look for a perfectly fitting piece before leaving for the office in the morning. The fashion show exuded calm, was full of beautiful details - and unlike Chanel, there were not so many to be distracting.
She can be boldly competed by the brand Aje, which also showed very timeless pieces, also the Australian favorite Zimmermann. We all fell in love with the daring safari jacket from the gallery in the editorial office. And if you were to have one autumn piece from the runway in your wardrobe, it would be this one.
Petroleum blue, wide sleeves and careful adornment will perhaps win everyone over. The entire model was complemented by bell-bottom trousers with a high waist, which has been making a big comeback in recent years. And although many could not imagine discarding their skinny jeans not so long ago, wide trousers are now almost compulsory for everyone's wardrobe.
The designers of the Zimmermann brand also showed that they know how to play well with accessories. The style is perfected with an elegant scarf tied under the chin and large sunglasses, which add a dramatic, almost cinematic touch. With such an outfit during Indian summer, you can't go wrong. And you'll be the star!
Názor PROTI PROUDU: Anděla Vostrá
Miu Miu Disaster
If anyone went too far during Paris Fashion Week, it was Miu Miu. Their outfits lacked no courage, but there was so much of it that the attendees surely lost track of what they were actually looking at. The collection was playful, betting on layering and in many respects "brazen", which would not be bothersome. The overall styling, however, was deliberately "ugly". They experimented with proportions, textures, bet on a masculine look. We ask why, isn't it a pity? Such potential... And buried tens of metres underground.
Why put on a beautiful dress with a motif reminiscent of the apron from the trilogy Sun, Hay ? Further complemented by a sweater that does not match the dress color at all. And on top of that, a hidden checkered shirt that every honest Czech tractor driver has at home. It kind of reminds me of the situation where the organizer gives you only a limited time for the show and you can't decide what piece to attract potential shoppers with. Great apologies to all designers, this was really not good and in this performance the leather dress looked like an apron in the local blacksmith's workshop.
We give nine out of ten for courage, for zero wearability outside of the catwalk - out of respect for the designers - maybe two out of ten. A provocation that lacked a point, it perhaps suggests that Miu Miu is the boldest player in world fashion. But if luxury pieces become a stylish tribute to a kitchen apron, it will always look a bit absurd.
The show was clearly supposed to give the impression of power, independence, and perhaps a bit of ironic detachment from classic femininity. But even fashion has its rules. Or could at least be a little flattering?
What emerged from fashion week?
To not be too critical, a lot of good came from Paris Fashion Week. The shows were full of contrasts, designers tried to combine controversial ideas with a touch of elegance. Not everyone managed to do that, we already know that. But often it was a truly perfect spectacle. The return to the eighties was also very noticeable. Models that accentuated the shoulders and often came from the decades of the last century were visible. You will probably find current trendy pieces in your mothers' or maybe even grandmothers' wardrobe.
Animal motifs such as snake skin and zebra also appeared, and details were also bet on. Next spring, don't forget to buy prominent jewelry, scarves, belts and don't be afraid of asymmetric patterns. You can layer, but be careful. Although, perhaps Chanel was pointing out with her collection that next spring will be cold and that some extra layer will eventually come in handy...
