What trends and quirks did European fashion weeks bring? Dachshund on dresses, fishing net over the head, and underwear taking center stage.
The two most important weeks of men's fashion are behind us, and the fashion world already knows what will be worn next year. While Milan focused on wearable elegance and a return to classic tailoring, Paris wasn't afraid to provoke. Runways showcased sheer materials, lace, very short shorts, but also sophisticated suits and natural shades. It's already clear that 2027 will be much bolder than we've been used to in recent seasons.
If this year's fashion month showed anything clearly, it’s that oversized silhouettes are slowly fading. This was most evident in Milan, where Prada, Giorgio Armani, and other brands presented **sleeker silhouettes, lightweight jackets, and trousers that once again contour the body.** Not all brands followed this trend, as some designers still rely on oversized pieces, especially in men's fashion where they remain popular items.
This doesn't signify a return to the skinny jeans of the early last decade, but rather a return to elegance. **Designers worked with soft materials that conveyed a relaxed feel while maintaining a luxurious appearance.** Shades of white, gray, sand, olive, and dark blue dominated. The street style photographs from the streets of Milan show that a similar direction is being taken. Instead of flashy logos, high-quality materials, layering, and timeless cuts prevail.
Heat Changes Fashion
One of the biggest themes of this year's shows was not just fashion itself, but also the extreme heat. In Milan and Paris, temperatures were nearing forty degrees, and designers adapted their collections accordingly. There was a significant amount of linen, thin cotton, silk, or sheer fabrics on the runways. Suits were lighter than ever before, and airy layers dominated instead of heavy coats. Fashion is thus responding to the reality of climate change.
Interestingly, the imaginary boundary between what is intended for adults and what for children is disappearing in fashion. A great example is German Caroline Daur, who hit the streets in a dress featuring a cartoon dachshund. Usually, you would find such motifs in the children's section, but it's as if fashion designers are calling for freedom again and showing a desire to play. With cuts, motifs, and interesting accessories. There was even a drawing in the neckline reminiscent of the pictures parents receive at the end of the year from their children in kindergartens. Could it be that the fashion world is awakening from monotonous greyness and showing that there's room for expression? That would be not only an interesting change but finally something to talk about. In recent years, it seemed that at fashion weeks, everyone was doing the same thing and holding back unnecessarily. Men's fashion, in particular, hasn't changed much. Even mothers of young boys occasionally lament on social media that there's a much more interesting variety of clothing cuts available for girls than for boys. Unfortunately, this hasn't changed for years, even in the adult segment.
Paris Has Become Bolder. Lace, Nudity, and Romance
While Milan remained relatively conservative, Paris allowed designers to experiment much more. Lace tops, sheer materials, exposed shoulders, or blouses reminiscent of women's fashion became major trends. Male and female aesthetics continue to blend, and the boundaries between them are becoming less and less distinct. More and more celebrities admit to shopping in the section that suits them, regardless of whether it is men's or women's. Perhaps one day we will reach a point where fashion is no longer distinguished by gender.
The shows also featured skirts, scarves, pearls, and delicate floral patterns. However, the collections did not have an overtly shocking appearance. Instead, they demonstrated that luxury fashion is increasingly focusing on individuality rather than traditional dress codes. Denim is also making a huge comeback. It's not about classic blue jeans, though. Designers created entire outfits, layered coats, or asymmetrical tops composed of several different pieces from the popular material. Material recycling and upcycling are becoming a common part of luxury fashion. The same trend could be seen off the runway, where visitors combined different shades of denim in a single outfit.
Biggest Surprise? Flip-flops on an Odd Heel
If there was one accessory that garnered the most talk during this year's fashion month, it's the shoes. Alongside chunky boots and minimalist loafers, sandals reminiscent of classic flip-flops have started appearing, albeit perched on high heels. These similar models are already showing up on the social media of fashion influencers and, according to experts, have a great chance of becoming one of the most talked-about trends of the next season.
Boldly competing with them is also underwear, which recently both celebrities and designers have been making the main part of an outfit. Gone are the days when women hid their bras and attached rubber transparent straps so that nothing was visible. Now this women's gem plays a leading role in every second outfit, and women are not afraid to wear cups even on a shirt so that they are clearly visible.
Thom Browne has once again proven that fashion can be theater
One of the biggest events in Milan was the debut of American designer Thom Browne, who prepared one of the most striking shows of the entire season. It wasn't just about clothing, but a carefully constructed fashion theater where imagination, precise tailoring, and humor played the main roles. Critics ranked his collection among the highlights of this year's fashion week.
Dior and Louis Vuitton remained a magnet for celebrities
In Paris, the Dior and Louis Vuitton shows traditionally attracted the most attention. Dior captivated with a new take on romantic men's fashion, while Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton reunited luxury with streetwear and sports aesthetics. Both shows filled the front rows with world celebrities and were among the most watched events of the entire week.
Although Williams was underestimated by many, as he is still primarily seen as a musician and rapper, it cannot be denied that he has a keen sense of the young generation's taste, and under his leadership, Louis Vuitton can once again become the first choice for young people and lovers of more daring pieces. In addition to clothing, bags, and luggage, a bicycle and paddleboard also appeared on the fashion runway.
What Will We Take Away from Fashion Month?
If we had to sum up this year's Milan and Paris in a few words, they would be: lightness, elegance, and courage. Quality natural materials, layering, a softer color palette, and precise tailoring are coming to the forefront. However, designers are also showing that the future of fashion will not be bound by rules. Lace, sheer fabrics, asymmetrical cuts, or unconventional accessories are no longer outlandish but a common part of collections from the most prestigious fashion houses.
And if we judge by the reactions of fashion critics, this mix of comfort and boldness will define the fashion of 2027. It is already more than certain that we have something to look forward to. The streets indeed need more of those who are not afraid to show their true selves and stand out from the crowd.
Interestingly, plus size models have gradually been disappearing from the major world runways in recent seasons. Just a few years ago, fashion houses emphasized inclusion and body positivity, which aimed to show that beauty has many forms. Lately, however, it seems the pendulum is swinging in the opposite direction. The current trend of significant weight loss in Hollywood may also play a role, where many celebrities openly admit or are associated with the use of medications for treating diabetes and obesity, leading to rapid weight loss. A slim figure is thus regaining prestige, and many fashion experts speak of the return to the aesthetics of very narrow silhouettes.
Source: author's article, Reuters Connect, InsideHook, Monocle, WWD
