A pink veil over trousers, white flowers around the face, and a coat that takes up half the pier. London presented fashion for next spring. We selected eight photographs and looked at what from them has a chance of making it into everyday wardrobes.
Pregnant singer Leigh-Anne Pinnock (34) concluded one of the shows with a bra that sprayed liquid representing breast milk. Kim Kardashian (45) came to open the London Skims store and changed three outfits during a single evening. Photos that would circle the world were taken care of. However, between these two events, the more essential part of London Fashion Week took place. Designers showed how they envision dressing for spring and summer 2027.
And there will definitely be plenty to choose from. Bora Aksu reached for lace and veils, Simone Rocha built large flowers from fabric, Erdem combined feathers with blazers and coats. Their collections differ, but the same approach repeatedly appears in them. Placing something delicate next to a piece of clothing that has a firm cut or at first glance belongs to a completely different situation.
Designer Bora Aksu presented his collection in London's St. Cyprian's church. Models first walked down his runway in lace, ruffles and garments resembling wedding dresses. Gradually, trench coats, trousers and elements inspired by historical menswear were added. The designer referenced painter Mary Beale, who in the 17th century managed to make a living from her own work at a time when women did not have equal access to professional opportunities as men. At first glance, the pink veil and tulle catch the eye. But the best idea of the entire combination is less conspicuous. The romantic layers actually received a firmer foundation in the form of trousers.
Simone Rocha also worked with romantic elements. At her show in London's Old Bailey courthouse, she adorned models with large fabric roses. The flowers appeared on dresses as well as on collars of jackets and coats. It is precisely the combination of roses with more everyday clothing that is most easily wearable from her collection for daily wear. A single striking flower on a simple blazer or coat is enough. The decoration then stands out without the need to add further patterns or jewelry. London Fashion Week seemed to remind women that they don't need to be afraid to be seen. And next year it will be time for striking accessories, appliqués and embellishments. Could it be that we should have something to look forward to after the grey winter?
At the Erdem fashion house, it would be easy to stop at feathers and voluminous evening models. However, fashion designer Erdem Moralıoğlua also focused on shirts, tweed coats, blazers, denim and looser trouser suits. He drew inspiration from the artist Barbette, who performed on the trapeze in women's costumes in the 1920s and 1930s. That's why he placed elements of underwear, glittering embroidery and feathers alongside much more firmly tailored clothing.
The light blue model, which at first glance resembles an escape in a bathrobe from a hotel after a wild night out, is actually among the more festive pieces that Erdem showed at the fashion show. It's certainly not for everyday wear, but much more interesting is the principle behind the entire collection. An embellished or delicate piece no longer has to wait in the closet for the Christmas party. Let a delicate top peek out from under a blazer, wear a statement blouse with plain trousers and show that you definitely won't be overlooked in a crowd. And then it only depends on your courage whether you prefer a piece with feathers or a bold floral.
Young designer Petra Fagerström took a different direction. She called her collection Swedish Summer, and joked herself about presenting rather unconventional clothing for summer that was inspired by figure skating. Alongside fur hoods and jackets, she worked with pleating and optical effects. Some dresses revealed a different image when in motion than what they offered when still. She also showed a trench coat that looked like a layer thrown over a leather costume, even though it was entirely created as one piece.
What's appealing about her collection is that it doesn't promise one correct "summer" outfit. For a cooler morning, a shorter jacket over a light dress makes sense, other times loose trousers and a thin extra layer can work. Few people will buy a giant furry hood for home, but layering clothes with different lengths and textures is an idea we'll happily use right away.
The brand Di Petsa went the furthest in this direction. Greek designer Dimitra Petsa dedicated the Holy Milk collection to motherhood and body transformations. She showcased translucent materials, pleated dresses and fabrics with colour gradients reminiscent of sunset. The finale featured pregnant singer Leigh-Anne Pinnock and a bra that sprayed liquid resembling breast milk. This sparked a debate on social media about what is still tasteful art - and what is not. On the other hand, one cannot deny that she attracted attention with a bold move, which is every designer's dream when stepping onto the London runway.
So what can we expect from London in our wardrobes next spring? In these collections, lace, fabric flowers, feathers and light pleated materials were given a lot of space. Even more essential is the way they are worn. The festive element repeatedly meets here with trousers, a coat or a leather jacket. Fashion thus favors unconventional combinations and courage. Perhaps we'll even stop dividing clothes into summer and winter, and during hot days we can comfortably show off a furry hood. It seems that fashion trends definitely favor the desire to shock.